BRAKE CABLES
Brake cables should be tight enough so that the lever cannot be pulled all the way to the grip, yet loose enough that the brakes are not dragging on the rims.To increase cable tension (so the levers don't hit the grip) you must turn counter-clockwise. If you need to tighten the cable more than you can by simply fiddling with the barrel adjuster, first screw the barrel adjuster in clockwise most of the way to leave some adjustment in the system. Loosen the bolt clamping the cable at the brake and check the cable for wear. If you don't need to replace it, pull the cable tight and retighten the clamping bolt. Tension the cable as needed with the barrel adjuster.
To reduce cable tension (so the levers aren't so stiff/brakes don't drag) you must turn clockwise. Make sure that the cable is tight enough so that the lever cannot be squeezed all the way to the grip.
How to lubricate brake cables
- Release the brake cable
- Compress the lever, pull on the housing and slide it through the barrel adjuster until the inner wire is exposed
- Carefully squeeze a few drops of oil into the inner cable just above where it runs down into the housing
- Slide the cable housing back into the barrel adjuster and re-connect the brake
- Remove the old cable, making sure not to lose any parts of the cable clamps or straddle-cable holders
- Cut the housing sections long enough to reach the brakes and route them so they do not make any sharp bends. If you are replacing existing housing, look at where they bend before removing them. If the bends are smooth and do not bind when the wheel is turned or the suspension moves, cut the new housings to the same lengths
- After cutting, make sure that the ends are clean. If not, shear off extra bits or file it down until it's a flat circle.
- If the housing liner is mashed shut after cutting, open it up with a sharp object.
- Slip a ferrule over each housing end for support
- Tighten the adjusting barrel with one turn of being screwed all of the way in. Rotate the barrel adjuster and locknut so that their slots line up with those on the lever and lever body
- Insert the round head of the cable into the lever's cable hook
- Pull the cable down into the lined-up slots on the barrel and nut. Once the cable is in place, turn the barrel so that the slots are offset to prevent the cable from slipping back out
- REAR: Slide the rear-wheel brake cable through the housing sections and then route the cable and housing from the brake lever to the brake, snapping the housing and cable into the slot in each stop
- FRONT: With a V-brake, terminate the housing in the top of the "noodle" guide tube. On a cable-actuated disc brake, the housing usually terminates at a stop on the brake caliper. With a cantilever brake and a suspension fork, terminate the front-brake housing at the stop on the fork brace. For cantilevers without suspension, you may have a cable stop that is integral to the stem or one attached to the headset.
- Attach the cable to the brake. Pull the cable taut and tighten the cable-clamping bolt. Pull the lever as hard as you can and squeeze it repeatedly for about a minute to stretch the new cable.
- Adjust cable tension with the lever barrel adjuster
- Cut off cable ends about 2.5" past the cable anchor bolts. Crimp end caps on all exposed cable ends to prevent fraying and bend the extra to the side.
How long should housing be?
The less drag on the cables, the better the shifting/braking. If housing is too short, it'll kink and bind, creating even more friction.
SHIFT CABLES
Increasing cable tension by turning the barrel adjuster counterclockwise (towards the spokes) will move the derailleur towards the lower gears/bigger sprockets. Decreasing cable tension by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise will move the derailleur towards the high gears/smaller sprockets.
How to lubricate the front shift cable
- Shift the front derailleur to the largest sprocket and then stop the freewheel
- Move the shift lever all the way to the opposite direction.
- Disconnect and lube the upper housing of the front shift cable the same way as the rear
- Reconnect the cable and once again make sure to shift the lever back where it was before rotating the crank.
- Shift the gears until the chain is on the largest sprocket and stop the freewheel
- Shift your shifter all the way into the opposite direction
- Pull the cable and housing up and out of the first cable stop
- Pull the upper section of the housing down leaving a section of cable exposed
- Lube the cable the same way as a brake cable and reconnect the housing to the cable stop
- Pull the lower section of housing free from the frame (out of the cable stop) and slide it away from the derailleur
- Repeat the lubrication process and reconnect the housing
- Move your rear shifter back to the largest sprocket before rotating the rear wheel
(Carefully observe how the cable is routed before removing anything)
- Removing the cable: Relieve the cable tension by shifting your derailleur so the chain is on the smallest sprocket on either your front or rear derailleur.
- Disconnect the cable at the pinch bolt and cut the cable just before the flattened part where it was pinched.
- Slide the cable out.
- Turn the shifter barrel adjuster all the way clockwise and then back it off one full turn.
- Turn the derailleur barrel adjuster all the way clockwise and then back it off one full turn.
- Drop some light oil into the housings and make sure the housing's ferrules are firmly in place.
- Route your cable the same way it was before and thread it under the derailleur's pinch bolt washer. Tighten it.
- Adjust the derailleur as needed. Cut the wire and crimp it.
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